Since I began showing my house the most requested design has been a ground floor bedroom for those who don’t want to climb a ladder every night. Here’s my floor plan with a more accessible queen size bed. It features three steps up to the bed platform, a three drawer dresser in the risers, and underneath, a water heater and insulated storage compartment accessible from the outside of the house. At some point I may spend some time landscaping around it with a ramp entry and a deck. I will release another plan soon modified for those who would prefer to avoid ANY steps or stairs at all.
The floorplan assumes an 18’ flatbed trailer for its foundation and cantilevers 18” beyond that to maximize the enclosed footprint. It could be built on a foundation if desired but at about 8’ by 20’ it’s 160 square feet, and so would exceed most “accessory building” permit exemptions.
This design places double entry doors on the side of the house at the front of the trailer, near the hitch. A smaller sliding glass door or french door set could work, making for a striking entry and a light filled space. A bay window bump out at the front encloses the propane tank(s) in an exterior cupboard, gives more visual spaciousness, and provides a little bench seating along the side of the room. The bathroom holds a 36” shower and a toilet.
The sink is in the great room in a mini kitchen counter. A convection microwave above, a portable convection burner, and an undercounter fridge would make this space functional for a pretty good array of cooking needs. If you don’t believe me read the excellent article “I Can Really Cook in my Tiny Kitchenette” for specifics. Or it could be used largely as a storage piece for those who don’t need a kitchen. The kitchen and bath area are topped by a 48 square foot partially walled loft storage area accessible from the bedroom. A pocket door could be added to close off the bedroom if desired.
The Design Logic
I have found that good quality Murphy or wall beds are super expensive - for good reason in most cases. The hardware is expensive, the safety concerns are numerous, and the engineering can be tricksy as well. Assuming that we don’t want to spend 3 or 4 thousands bucks on a pop away bed of some kind, how does a person fit a good size bed on the ground floor of a tiny house and still have the rest of the essentials? This layout places emphasis on the accessible bed first and the spacious living room second. The loft storage area and mini kitchen play a supporting role and the space under the bed is put to use as exterior access storage for seasonal or infrequently used items.
The water heater under the closet is also accessible from outside for service and maintenance. To make a more budget friendly version one could use a single front door, make the large windows a little smaller and omit the octagon windows or use small square windows instead. The biggest expense here would be paying a cabinetmaker to do the custom drawer stairs. For an amateur to pull of a good fit and function here would be extraordinarily difficult - and stairs are too important to mess up. Really good hardware will allow for deep strong drawers that pull out all the way, have the strength to hold a load while fully extended, and close softly too. I don’t recommend going low budget on that part.
I hope folks can use some ideas from this layout in their own designs or that it might inspire a better attempt at a ground floor sleeping plan for a tiny house. Please feel free to enjoy and share it for non-commercial purposes.
The Disclaimer
Obviously this is a concept, not a construction plan. Please bear in mind that I created this plan quickly on a new drafting program I’m still learning how to use. There are tons of details I couldn’t get quite right but I didn’t want to delay getting it out there in favor of waiting until it was perfect. The roofline isn’t right over the bay windows. The appliances are squished down versions of the large 3D appliances that came stock with the program, so they look funny. The measurements I used however ARE the actual measurements of real compact appliances that are available. The cabinetry control in the program completely eludes me, so neither of the kitchen pieces actually resemble what I would put in this if I built it. I can’t figure out how to change the color of the bed, I couldn’t get drawer fronts onto the stair risers, and I had to eliminate the bathroom door so we could see down the hall in 3D. I also played around with exterior house trim but I couldn’t get it to go where I wanted and I couldn't take it off once I put it on, so if you notice it’s all cockeyed and weird, don’t blame me - I agree.
Pepper what program do you use to design your homes? I would love to play around with it...>I have 10 years before i can build one so it's something to do in meantime! :)
ReplyDeleteCan you get the slideshow to work?
DeleteI used Punch! Home & Landscape Design Professional NexGen3, available here: http://www.punchsoftware.com/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=ppc
DeleteI got it because I had used an earlier version of their affordable architectural drafting program years ago and found it functional and a million miles easier than AutoCAD for quick projects. This newer version is quick, simple, and does most of what I want it to, and I'm happy I spent the money. My article spells out the things I'm still having trouble with, and the only trick I've mastered since then was how the kitchen cabinetry stuff works. I would say that to someone who has never had any computer drafting experience at all, expect to use the tutorials, be patient, and take your time.
Nice job. I know this could sell. Those of us 50 and over will not be using lofts forever, even if we can use one now.
ReplyDeleteI like the concept of the layout. I would replace the hot water heater with a continuous hot water heater to save space. It would possibly be placed on the outside of the building in a little cabinet. Otherwise I like it.
ReplyDeleteIt's funny you say that! This plan specifies a water heater measuring 17" x 17" x 27" placed in the little back cabinet accessed from the outside. Must be a great idea for us both to have it! :D
DeleteMost tankless heaters are about that size or a little bigger, so would take up about the same space. But all the tankless I've seen are in a vertical orientation, which would preclude installation under the bed platform. It would have to hang off the side of the building somehow. And just as a construction caution, read specs CAREFULLY on exactly how to install tankless water heaters. Outdoor models generally can't be enclosed in a cabinet and indoor models needs enclosures of very specific sizes and will have to be in insulated space. Must be a great idea for us both to have it! :D
Love the back bedroom--I am NOT a fan of the loft. Looking forward to more concept renderings!
ReplyDeleteI am wondering, if people are not wanting the loft for sleeping, and are not going to use the actual bed except for sleeping (or just hanging/vegging out), doesn't having a bed that can fold into a couch or something make the most sense, to get the most floor space? A bed could be designed perhaps that is built into or attached to the house itself by rails or something and incorporates one of those split mattresses like ikea sells, the mattress with the crease for futons? When not a bed it would just fold right into a couch or something. I am 42 now and probably won't be living in one of these till 52...right now i could handle a ladder but these older folks are probably right....later I won't want to sleep in the loft. But i HATE to lose floor space to a bed. if murphy doesn't work, i think designing a really clever fold down that doubles as seating or a table or something, would be great.
ReplyDeleteI completely agree about transformer beds of some kind, but I can't be comfortable over the long term with a bed with creases, folds, or multiple parts. The quality of my sleep is very important to me, so I would only consider a transformer that raises the mattress out of the way without folding it, and the ones I've seen available have been astronomically expensive. I looked into having various designs I could come up with fabricated by local cabinetmakers and they're just as expensive. The hardware alone for a good Murphy bed is over $3000. For reasons of expense and safety the only solution I would consider building myself is a basic stationary platform of a strategic height to allow the space underneath to be useful.
DeleteYeah i have never slept on a bed with a crease like that...so unless I could dig a twin bed for long term (i'm single) i don't know that i would want that kind of expense in a bed. i might have to just train myself to sleep comfortable on a twin bed, if i'm still single in 10 yrs :)
ReplyDelete